By Clare Townley, Founder & Clinical Skincare Therapist, LeClair Skincare

5 minute read

If I asked you to name a skincare ingredient that’s been clinically proven to help rebuild collagen, smooth fine lines, improve skin texture, and strengthen the skin barrier, you’d probably say retinol. Or vitamin C. Maybe even hyaluronic acid.

You probably wouldn’t say peptides.

And yet, in over 25 years of clinical practice, peptides are among the ingredients I’ve come to respect most. They work intelligently, they work gently, and they work consistently. They just don’t shout about it, which is exactly why I want to dedicate this post to them.

So, What Exactly Is a Peptide?

Let’s start with the basics, because the word ‘peptide’ gets thrown around in skincare without much explanation.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids. They’re the building blocks of protein. When amino acids link together in sequences of two to fifty, they form peptides. When those chains get longer still, they form proteins. And the most important protein in your skin? Collagen.

Collagen is what keeps skin firm, plump, and resilient. From our mid-twenties onwards, we produce approximately 1% less collagen each year. By the time we reach our forties and fifties, that cumulative loss becomes visible in the lines, the sagging, and the loss of that natural bounce.

This is where peptides come in.

How Do Peptides Actually Work?

Think of your skin as a highly sophisticated communication system. Cells are constantly sending and receiving signals about what needs repairing, what needs producing, and what needs protecting.

Peptides are essentially messengers. When applied topically, certain peptides mimic the signals your skin sends when collagen has been broken down. They tell your fibroblast cells (the ones responsible for producing collagen and elastin) to increase production. Your skin responds by getting to work.

“When I explain peptides to clients in clinic, I often describe them as sending a memo to the skin’s management team. The memo says: we need more collagen. And the skin acts on it.”

What I find particularly compelling about peptides, both clinically and philosophically, is that they work with the skin’s own biology rather than forcing a dramatic response. This aligns completely with the ethos behind LeClair: respect, not aggression.

Not All Peptides Are the Same

This is where it’s worth getting a little more specific, because ‘peptide’ is an umbrella term that covers a wide range of molecules with quite different functions.

The main types you’ll encounter in skincare are:

• Signal peptides: these are the collagen-boosters. They instruct the skin to produce more collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is one of the most well-researched of these.
• Carrier peptides: these deliver trace minerals like copper and manganese to the skin, both of which play a role in wound healing and collagen synthesis.
• Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides: sometimes called ‘Botox-like’ peptides (though that comparison is something of an oversimplification), these work to soften expression lines by mildly relaxing repeated muscle contractions. Argireline is the most widely known.
• Enzyme-inhibiting peptides: these help to slow the natural breakdown of collagen by inhibiting enzymes that degrade it.

In formulation, the real artistry lies in combining peptides thoughtfully. Choosing the right types, at the right concentrations, in a base that allows them to penetrate effectively.

Why Peptides Deserve a Place in Your Routine

One of the most common questions I get from clients is: “I’m already using retinol and vitamin C. Do I really need peptides too?”

My answer is almost always yes, and here’s why.

Retinol is a powerful ingredient, but it works by accelerating cell turnover, which can be too stimulating for sensitive, reactive, or compromised skin. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that brightens and protects. Brilliant, but not always tolerated by everyone.

Peptides, by contrast, are exceptionally well-tolerated. They don’t cause the redness, flaking, or sensitivity that can come with acids or retinoids. They’re suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin and skin that has become reactive from overuse of harsher active ingredients.

Used alongside other actives, they help support and amplify the results. Used alone, particularly in a serum or eye treatment, they deliver quiet, consistent improvement that compounds over time.

In clinic, I’ve seen peptide-rich formulations make a genuine difference to the quality and resilience of mature skin over a period of eight to twelve weeks of consistent use. This is not a quick fix. It’s a long-term investment in your skin’s structural health.

What to Look For (and What to Watch Out For)

If you’re looking to introduce peptides into your routine, here are a few practical pointers from my clinical experience:

• Look for them near the top of the ingredients list. Concentration matters. A peptide listed near the bottom of a long ingredient deck is unlikely to deliver meaningful results.
• Choose a leave-on product like a serum or moisturiser. Peptides have limited benefit in rinse-off products like cleansers.
• Be patient. Unlike some ingredients that produce quick, visible results, peptides work on a deeper, structural level. Give them at least eight weeks before you assess results.
• Avoid combining peptides with strong acids in the same application. Low-pH environments can compromise the stability of some peptide molecules. Use your acid in the morning or evening, and your peptide product at a separate time.

Peptides in LeClair Formulations

When I began developing the LeClair range, it was important to me that every formulation had a clear clinical rationale behind it. Peptides feature in our products not as a marketing trend, but because the evidence base is strong and my clinical experience has confirmed their value.

Our Velvet Crème Rich Moisturiser and Advanced Eye Serum are both formulated with peptide complexes designed to support collagen synthesis, improve elasticity, and help restore the skin’s structural integrity over time. They sit alongside other carefully selected ingredients that complement, rather than compete with, their activity.

These are products I developed based on what I would actually prescribe to my clients. That hasn’t changed.

The Bottom Line

Peptides may not have the same high-profile reputation as retinol or vitamin C, but in my view, that’s more about marketing than merit. They are scientifically sound, clinically supported, and exceptionally versatile. When formulated well, they deliver meaningful, lasting results.

If you’d like guidance on how to introduce peptides into your specific skincare routine, or which LeClair products might be right for your skin concerns, feel free to get in touch. I’m always happy to help.

Clare Townley is a qualified skincare therapist with over 25 years of clinical experience and the founder of LeClair Skincare. LeClair is a British luxury vegan skincare brand, available online at leclairskincare.co.uk and stocked at John Bell & Croyden, Wigmore Street, London.